Mate Support

MATE Assistance

Flat tire? Lights not working? Looking for easy solutions? We’ve Got You Covered!
Please take a look at the most common issues and easy troubleshooting steps that will get your bike back on the road!

If none of our troubleshooting steps or advice help in resolving your issue, please contact our Customer Support Team on hello@mate.bike

If you are seeing or feeling the tire is uneven, not completely round or not running completely straight, you might need to perform these steps to resolve it or take it to your local bike service.

Troubleshooting Steps:
- Inspect the rim for distortions and the tire line to be even all around
- If the wheel is buckled/bent or dented, take it to your local bike shop for service (wheel truing or wheel replacement).
- If the rim is true/round, release the air from the tire
- Use soapy water on the sidewalls of the tire and the rim to ease alignment
- Inflate the tire half the required pressure and check if the tire is aligned properly, if needed use some hand pressure to push the tire onto the rim sidewall.
- Inflate the tire and check if the problem is resolved, repeat the last steps again if needed – it might take some practice and patience to mount tires.

Loose headset can be described as free-play in the fork, back-forth movement of the handlebar and fork, steering column movement, wobbling steering, front-end feels out of alignment. What the actual issue usually is – the headset bearings became loose.

Troubleshooting Steps:
- Check if it is the headset
  - Hold on the front brake and try to move the bike front to back
  - If the bike/frame is moving, not feeling stable, making sounds of movement – headset needs to be adjusted
- Adjust headset
  - Locate two horizontal pinch bolts on the stem base
  - Untighten the two bolts with 6mm Hex key
- - Fold the handlebar down
  - Tighten the big top bolt inside the stem with 10mm Hex key, half or quarter of a turn (depending how loose it is)
- - Tighten the two pinch bolts on the stem
  - Check if the headset is still loose
    
    No movement in the headset – your headset issues are resolved.
    
    Still moving – repeat procedure until there is no movement in the headset area and the handlebar is still spinning freely
When the handlebar or the stem pole is not aligned with the wheel and fork, the steering of the bicycle feels off, sometimes described as mis-aligned, not straight, unbalanced.

Troubleshooting Steps:
- Adjust stem position
  - Locate two horizontal pinch bolts on the stem base
  - Untighten the two bolts with 6mm Hex key
  - Straighten the handlebar, so that the folding mechanism is at 45 degree angle
  - Tighten the two pinch bolts on the stem
  - Repeat if needed
These forks do not really have oil inside, it’s thicker grease, which sometimes comes up the fork legs. That is not a fault or a problem, this is quite normal, wipe excess grease away, repeat if needed.
Otherwise, if the fork seems dry, sticky – silicone spray can be used on the fork stanchions – just be careful and cover the disc brake to protect it from contamination.

Possible issues: gears are not shifting properly, not staying in one gear, gear shifter (gear handle) stuck, cannot use gears, gear change slow, gears work well only one way.
Inspect derailleur and cables for damage.
Look out for any cuts, sharp bends, or physical damage.If damages are found – replace or take to a local bike shop.
No damage – continue troubleshooting
Visually inspect gear hanger
If damaged or visibly bent-replace or take to a local bike shop. If slightly out of alignment - take to a local bike shop for gear hanger adjustment.
Find here our how-to videos on how to adjust gears and change the derailleur hanger.

Frame folding mechanism (folding handle, hinge, latch) can be loose, not locking properly or at all, hard to lock or broken.

Troubleshooting Steps:
- Loose mechanism or not locking properly
  - Tighten the silver bolt little by little until you reach the desired effect.
  - Screw in the small pin from the underside.
  - Repeat if required.
- Hard to lock
  - Unscrew the small pin from the underside a little bit.
  - Untighten the silver bolt a little bit.
  - Repeat if required.
- Broken / Not working completely
  - please send through video evidence to our Customer Support Team

Brake performance might be reduced due to brake pad wear, brake pad and rotor contamination, bad adjustment.
Troubleshooting steps:
1. Inspect brake pads for wear
- Worn brake pads – replace or take to a local bike shop.
- If brake pads are OK:
a) Inspect disc rotor for contamination – rotor has to be clean, any grease, lubricant or dirt will reduce stopping power
Clean disc rotor with paper and brake cleanerIf the rotor is very dirty, has visible oil residue – rotor and brake pads need to be replaced – cleaning will not help.
b) If brake pads and rotors are OK, continue troubleshooting.
2. Adjust brakes (MATE helpdesk video)
a) Adjustment works, provides enough stopping power
b) Still not enough power – consult Local Bike Shop for closer inspection or contact our Customer Support team.
Sometimes brakes might be out of adjustment or the wheel might not be installed correctly, causing the brake disc/rotor to rub against the brake pads and make noise while riding or make it more difficult to ride, as the wheel can not spin freely.
1. Check if the wheel is put straight in the frame/fork.
2. Adjust the brakes so the brake disc sits in the middle between the two brake pads – see our help videos.
If the brakes are not working, and the cable is out of its place at the lever, please follow these steps:
1. Open the outer ring on the barrel adjuster.
2. Align the barrel adjuster so that the open notch is lined up and open on the lever
3. Pull on the outer cable (black) backwards, and slide it through the open notch.
4. Screw the barrel adjuster out so that there is no cable free play in the cable housing.
5. If adjusting the lever adjuster is not enough, adjust the barrel adjuster on the brake caliper

If your MATE is not supporting you with power anymore or it is not continuous, is it possible, that the Pedal Assist Sensor and setting checkup is needed.

Troubleshooting Steps:
- Inspect cable connections by unplugging and replugging them. Look out for any cuts, bends or plug damage (you might need to access the controller box to reach PAS sensor connector)
- Check the display settings that there are any values entered for each PAS level.
- Perform a factory reset on display and check PAS level values are not 0%.
- Check PAS sensor is aligned and not damaged
- Unplug and reconnect the throttle.
- Unplug and reconnect the brake light.
- Check the error 25 brake sensor adjustment process. The motor cut off might be triggered without giving an error 25 on the display.
  - Perform brake sensor adjustment
  - Unplug and reconnect each brake sensor cable one at a time.
  - Unplug and reconnect the brake light.
  - Unplug and reconnect the throttle.
Throttle not working at all? Stop lights or even motor symbol on the screen when throttle is operated? These are common small issues that can be resolved following some simple guide below.

Troubleshooting Steps:
- Check against a second bike if possible.
- Inspect cable connections by unplugging and replugging them. Look out for any cuts, bends or plug damage.
- Check the setting for the throttle level (in display settings):
  - If “Throttle Level” is set to Y, then change the 1st PAS level to more than 0%
  - Change “Throttle Level” to N
- Check that the throttle is not having a magnet issue with the brake lever
  - With the throttle still connected remove it from the handlebar and test if it works.
  - If it does, adjust the position of the brake lever so that it does not interfere with the throttle.
  - Perform the brake sensor adjustment to make it less sensitive so it does not trigger the error 25/engine cut-off.
- Remove the tail light and perform a factory reset on the display to see if the throttle works.

Troubleshooting Steps:
1. Check key position to make sure it is in the 3rd “ignition” position
a) Check the voltage reading of battery in 3rd position.
b) Check the voltage of charger to make sure it is charging the battery properly
2. Inspect cable connections by unplugging and replugging them. Look out for any cuts, bends, or plug damage.
3. Check with a second battery if possible
4. Check the battery terminal connection for any signs of damage.
5. Inspect the fuse for any sign of damage.
a) If there is a visible gap in the wire or a dark or metallic smear inside the glass, then the fuse is blown.
Troubleshooting Steps:
1. Check if any error codes pop up on the display.
2. Check that display setting sare correct
3. Check voltage reading of battery in 3rd “ignition” position
4. Lean bike on kickstand and use throttle to try and replicate the issue
5. Lower Amp settings in display and test if it continuesInspect fuse condition
6. Check battery terminal connection and controller for signs of damage
a) Remove battery head and inspect for signs of damage
b) Remove the battery receiver plate and inspect for any damage
c) Gently remove the controller out of the frame and inspect for damage, re-connect all cables
d) Unplug the motor cable and inspect the connectors for any visible damage

If the charger port is burnt or damaged as a result of sparking, please clean up the carbon buildup and use a multimeter to measure the voltage of the battery to see if the port is damaged.
If the pin has broken off or the metal sheath has come off the plug, please try to remove it from the battery charger port:
1. Remove and disconnect the battery head from the battery
2. Try to remove the sheath with a small sharp screw, inserting and twisting/turning softly to remove

How to balance the a new battery’s cells to maximize range:

For a new battery, perform the below for your first 3 rides/charges. The steps can be actioned regardless of how far you have ridden or the amount of battery that you have used:
- Charge the battery outside of the bike and leave it on the charger up to 4 hours after the light has turned green but no longer than 8 hours with a 4/5A speed charger and 12 hours with a 2/3A charger.
- Disconnect the charger from the outlet first then from the battery
- Ride the bike like normal using the pedal assist and throttle (if you have one).
- It is ok to discharge only part of the battery or all of the battery before the next charge is performed
- Repeat steps 1-3 for 3 rides only.
- You can use your MATE normally after this has been performed.
When to perform cell balancing:
- When you first receive your MATE or a new battery
- If you have stored the battery for long-term
- If you experience a loss in range or charge amount
- To be proactive you can perform this monthly but NO more than one time per month.
Know how to keep your battery in good condition and safe:
- Never leave the battery on the charger longer than specified.
  - You can leave the battery on the charger up to 4 hours after the light has turned green but no longer than 8 hours with a 4/5A speed charger and 12 hours with a 2/3A charger.
- Never leave the battery unattended while charging.
- Never charge the battery when it is cold, be sure to always charge the battery at room temperature.
- Let your battery cool down after a charge before you use it.
- Let your battery cool down after you have used it before you charge it.
- Try not to “Top Off” charge every ride, it is better to discharge the battery between 20%- 60% before recharging.
- When storing the battery always leave it with at least 70% charge and check monthly.
- When storing the bike for long periods of time, charge the battery back up to 70% every 3 months.
- Before using the battery again, charge it completely.
- Check your fuse condition regularly, replace if you see signs of carbon buildup
Troubleshooting Steps:
- Inspect the charger for any cable damage, check if the charger indicator light is working properly.
- Inspect the charger tip for damage. Look out for any bends, breakage, damage to the metal sheath.
- Perform a voltage test on the charger
  - If charger voltage output is lower than 54V or the voltage is not stable, please make a short video and send to MATE
  - If the charger voltage reading is OK, continue troubleshooting the charger.
- Inspect the fuse for any sign of damage.
  - Remove the fuse from the battery head.
  - If there is a visible gap in the wire or a dark or metallic smear inside the glass, then the fuse is blown.
- Charge the battery for at least 4 hours and perform a voltage test on the battery to make sure it is within range of 54.6V when full; at least 41.6V when discharged.
  - If it is below that range and the charger is OK, then the battery will need to be “jump-started” by leaving it on the charger for 5-8 hours regardless of the light being green on the charger.
- If using a “Rapid or Speed charger” the cells will only get roughly an 85%+/- charge, also batteries degrade over time, so it’s normal and expected for the battery to lose initial capacity over time.
We are finding that many range issues may have nothing to do with battery, but actually bike settings in the display or a charger that is not working properly. If you are using 100% assist, Ludacris mode, ride your MATE only using the throttle, have any brake rub, tires are under pressure or have the current set at the highest when used for long periods of time, the range is cut by half of the suggested. Carrying weight, road surface and weather conditions (wind, temperature) also affect travel range greatly.

Key thing to know is that the battery percentage value on the display will fluctuate as you start the bike from being powered off or after a charge. The display will register a different value for a brief amount of time until the system recalibrates based on your current use and actual power level.

For an accurate reading on the battery health/life please set the indicator to “Voltage” and not percentage.

When using the Voltage display a healthy battery will register ranges from 54.6V when full and down to 41.6V when empty. A good practice that we highly recommend is to always charge around the time or before you see the voltage down to 44V.

If you have a 14.5Ah battery in a 750W bike your range will not be as advertised for the 17.5Ah battery.

The Mate X will approximately use battery consumption based on the averages listed below.
- Mixed pedal/throttle: approx. 10Wh/km
- Throttle only: approx. 20Wh/km
Key settings that affect battery drain:

Recommended settings in bold.
- - Tire size – 24” (if set to a smaller size the battery will drain faster)
  - Current/Amp –
    
    250W – 15A (long life) or 18A (more power, will drain faster) **Anything more will drain the battery very rapidly and can overheat the motor/controller 750W – 18A (long life), 20A (medium life with power)
    
    **Anything more will drain the battery very rapidly and can overheat the motor/controller. We strongly advise to use recommended settings. to use recommended settings. Speed limit– 25kp/h (EU) or 32kp/h (US) depending on country legal limitations.
    
    If you set the speed limit to any higher value, battery life will be drained rapidly.
  - PAS levels – If a value of 90% or higher is used for more than a short burst then the battery life will be drained rapidly.
- Black + White display Voltage settings:
- - 1 = 40.0v
  - 2 = 44.5v
  - 3 = 46.5v
  - 4 = 47.5v
  - 5 = 49v
- Brake rubbing on disk rotor – See Helpdesk Video on how to adjust
- Tire Inflation – No less than what is recommended for the tire (printed on the sidewall of the tire) to be able to achieve longer battery life. If lower than suggested battery range will decrease due to drag.
- Tire tread – If you are using dirt tires on a pavement they will have more drag than street tires and will limit the range of the battery since the motor has to work harder.
Adjust your ride accordingly, to account for a more quickly depleted battery during this time of year. Similar to phones and other Lithium-Ion powered devices, the battery on your MATE will experience changes in extreme temperatures. The range can be from 30-50% less than in warmer temperatures.
To get the most range out of your battery during winter, start your ride off with a room-temperature bike. This means bringing your battery (and ideally your whole bike) inside the house during cold weather.
Before charging, always allow a minimum of two hours for the battery to warm up to room temperature. NEVER charge your battery when the surrounding area is below 5°C / 40°F. Doing so will cause irreversible damage to the battery BMS and cell capacity.
When storing the bike for long periods of time, it is best to store the battery – ideally along with your MATE – in a cool, dry area (out of direct sunlight) that is between 10°C – 20°C / 50°F – 70°F. Charge it to 70% before storing.
Every month, charge the battery back up to 70%. Before using the battery again, charge it completely. This is going to maintain the health of your battery so that you AND your bike will be ready to ride again in the Spring!

Communication Error 30 is a generic electrical communication error between any of the electrical MATE components, due to this the troubleshooting might involve more steps to find the root cause of the problem.

Troubleshooting Steps:
- If possible, please cross-test the display, PAS sensor, battery, and main cable with a 2nd MATE.
- Inspect cable connections by unplugging and replugging them. Look out for any cuts, bends, or plug damage.
- Unplug and inspect the cable between the crank (PAS sensor) and the controller.
- Reconnect and perform a factory reset on the display.
- Unplug and inspect each brake sensor cable one at a time.
- Take note if the issue remains when unplugging either the front or back brake.
- Unplug and inspect the throttle cable for any damage.
- Reconnect and perform a factory reset on the display.
- Check your display, Unplug your display, inspect the connection and re-plug your display, and restart your bike.
Current Error 21 most of the time is related to power issues within the controller, that is hidden inside your MATE frame. If you are seeing this error on your display, please follow through for troubleshooting steps.

Troubleshooting Steps:
- Inspect cable connections by unplugging and replugging them. Look out for any cuts, bends or plug damage.
- Let the motor cool down and restart the bike, lower the current limit settings to 18a on 750W and 15a for 250W to see if it goes away.
  - If it does, ensure the current limit settings are no higher than 20a to eliminate recurrence of the error.
- Have you recently installed a new component on your MATE?
  - Remove each new component one at a time and perform a factory reset on the display.
  - If the error goes away, one of your components may be faulty.
- Inspect the cables and controller on the back of the battery receiver plate (in the frame) for any visible damage.
- Power off your bike, unplug the motor cable:
  - Inspect the connectors for any visible damage
  - Reconnect and see if the error remains.
Brake sensor error might be caused by actual brake malfunction or by mere magnet interference between other components. If you are seeing this error on your display, please continue further for help.

Troubleshooting Steps:
- Inspect cable connections by unplugging and replugging them. Look out for any cuts, bends or plug damage to the brake light, and brake sensors.
- Have you recently installed a throttle or brake light on your MATE?
  - Remove each component one at a time and perform a factory reset on the display.
  - If the error goes away, one of your components may be faulty.
If the error appears while throttle is in use:
- Perform a factory reset on the display.
- Move the throttle away from the brake handle, to ensure it does not interfere.
  - If the throttle was too close to the brake handle then it may trigger the sensor and for the brake lights to turn off. To correct, please perform brake sensor adjustment.
- Correctly adjust the brakes if needed. See HOW-TO video here.
Check brake sensor connection/adjustment:
- Unplug each brake and see if the error remains.
- Release the small locking screw from underneath the lever
- Adjust the sensor position with 7mm wrench until the error goes away
- Tighten and secure the small locking screw
- Repeat the steps if necessary
If you are seeing this error on your display, please click “Read more” for troubleshooting steps.

Troubleshooting Steps:
- If possible, please cross test your motor with your 2nd MATE.
- Inspect cable connections by unplugging and replugging them. Look out for any cuts, bends or plug damage.
- Inspect the cables & connectors on the controller(in the frame) for any visible damage.
- If error code appears while riding:
  - Let the motor cool down and restart the bike, lower the current limit settings to 18a on 750W and 15a for 250W to see if it goes away.
    
    If it does, ensure the current limit settings are no higher than 20a to eliminate recurrence of the error.
- If the error appears while throttle is in use:
  - Perform a factory reset on the display.
  - Move the throttle away from the brake handle, to ensure it does not interfere.
  - If possible, perform a cross-test with another MATE throttle